Sunday, January 5, 2014

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani gave up a career in medicine to pursue his interest in fashion. After a brief career as a photographer, he got his first job as a window dresser in the LaRinascente departmental store, in Milan. After working some time, he became Junior Buyer.

He left La Rinascente and joined Nino Cerruti where he worked as a designer for his menswear company Hitman.In 197O Armani started a company with his friend Sergio Galeotti, who was an architectural draftsman. For five years, they freelanced with various manufacturers and designed for others. He made women’s clothes for Tendresse, mannish coats for Gibo, a ready-to-wear house in Florence and also made two menswear collections for Emanuel Ungaro, from whom he learned the good cutting techniques he needed.Finally in 1975 Giorgio Armani launched his own label with the founding of the Giorgio Armani Company. On April 5th 1982, Giorgi was on the cover of Time Magazine. He was the first Italian designer to be so honoured, and only the second after Dior. Armani is often crediting with having made the “Made In Italy” slogan synonymous with excellence in tailoring and design 1983 He received the CFDA International Award.

Legendary Designer Giorgio Armani

Following the phenomenal success of his menswear, Armani used the elements of masculine tailoring to make feminine garments and earned a lot of praise and later on started to design complete collection for women . First to go were the padding and lining. Then, with a sculptor’s touch, Armani gave the shoulders a gentle slope, narrowed and elongated the lapels, and moved the center button down—just so. Short men stood tall—and tall men, even taller. Taking inspiration from Neapolitan tailors, who made their suits from lightweight fabrics to keep cool in the Mediterranean sun, Armani used less conventional, softer fabrics, including linen. Worn loose, an unconstructed Armani jacket gave the wearer a devil-may-care, slightly rumpled appearance. Armani understands how to make a suit sexy. He made jackets without stiff linings, opened up the armholes, deleted superfluous buttons and re-figured the proportions. He used soft slinky dress fabrics to make jackets, so lacking in starch that they could scarcely hold a crease. The design of the Armani jacket is far removed from traditional principles of jacket tailoring. On ordinary jackets, the shoulders fit tightly, the waist is apparent and it hits the breast. His jackets do not do any of these. He makes the shoulder sloping, giving the illusion of a longer neck, the fabric at the collar is pared away, again lengthening the neck, and the whole effect is restrained and languid, not at all masculine. Having suited up Wall Street in his signature pinstripes and neutrals, Armani set up shop on Rodeo Drive in 1988. Soon, Hollywood’s movers and shakers were parking their Beemers at his door.

His clothes have a sense of control and the lack of fuss and clutter make women feel comfortable. Armani uses a dense weave of 5 or even 8 strands of different colours, which at a distance merge into a neutral. This can be called beige, or stone, pearl, mink, sludge, etc. In all cases he stresses simplicity, and minimalism. He hardly uses accessories or jewellery in his collections. His style is the perfect bridge between refined elegance and down-to-earth comfort.He is perhaps the most influential menswear designer,also a supreme womenswear designer.There won't be a single new genius, or new Armani. Rather, there will be lots of little Armanis in coming time.He is also a Haute Couture designer and Armani Prive is his Haute Couture brand and he is a member of Chamber Syndicate of Haute Couture.Few people in the fashion world are as entwined with their brands. In most companies, a creative director designs and an executive manages. Armani does both. Many important designers, including Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs, work under contract for brands that aren't their own. Armani hasn't designed for anyone else in more than 30 years. Most houses are owned by large conglomerates, and for those that still belong to their founding families, ownership is usually shared. Armani owns 100 percent of Giorgio Armani SpA.

                                                              Armani's Collection

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